All of the components you will need to build you own fluid bed pond filter
are readily available off the shelf from DIY stores or  plumbers merchant.

List of parts you will need to build your own fluid bed pond filter.

1, You will need a length of 4.1/2  inch PVC sewer (stench) pipe.  This comes in about ten foot lengths - try to buy a three feet long off cut "it's cheaper".

2, One 4.1/2 inch sewer (stench) pipe end cap.

3, Two 22mm 90degree PVC bends.

4, One length of 22mm toilet overflow PVC pipe.

5, One 250 ml tin of solvent cement for PVC pipe.

That's it  - nothing complicated about that. 

Note

If you cannot get 4.1/2 inch pipe, 4 or 5 inch will do the job just as well, 
just remember to buy the matching end cap for your size of  pipe!

The 22mm PVC pipe could be changed to match your delivery pipe size,
But you will have to adapt the building process to accommodate your pipe size.

You are going to need some basic tools to make your DIY filter.

12 inch hack saw.
3mm Metal drill
21mm Flat bit drill (some people use a 21mm hole cutter)
A fine black marker pen.
Rough glass or emery paper.

How to construct your home made fluid bed pond filter.

  First of all, clear your work area of all rubbish and obstructions (safety).

  Take your length of sewer (stench) pipe.
  If it is a full length it should have a flared end,  if it does not have one do not worry.
  From that end measure three feet along the pipe and make a mark with the marker pen.
  At this point I rough cut the pipe to length past the mark an inch or so.
  Then lay the pipe on the floor and with the flared end of the pipe up against a wall
  and the marker laying flat on a block of wood, line up the pen with the mark you 
  made on the pipe.
  Then holding the pipe against the wall and the pen firm on the block 
  turn the pipe to extend the mark all the way around the pipe
  You now have a cutting line.

  Having satisfied yourself that this line is parallel cut the pipe to length.
  Taking care not to remove any fingers in the process.

  When cutting the pipe I use a work mate with the jaws open
  three inches or so to support the pipe.

Note
  Do not worry if this cut is not 100% true as it does not matter,
  you will be sticking the other end to form a water tight seal,
  it just looks better cut straight. Clean off any burrs with glass paper

Drilling the outlet

  Measure down the pipe six inches from the end you have just cut and make a mark.
  Drill a 3mm pilot hole at this point. Drill set on slow speed is best for this.
  Now enlarge the hole with the 21mm Flat Bit drill.
  Remove any tape, if used, and clean off any burrs.
  At this point you can test the outlet pipe in the hole - it should be a snug fit in the hole.
  If it does not fit through the hole glass it a little to give a good fit.
  Put the column to one side for now...

Note
  Sticking masking tape to the outside of the pipe, at the point to be drilled,
  can help center the drill when you start off drilling the pilot hole.

Making the base

  First of all take a look at the end cap.  You can see how it would fit into the flared end of the pipe.
  Well we are going to use it upside down - the skirt is going to be the very bottom of the filter,
  and the flat side (end) is going to be welded to the bottom of the column.

Working on a bench, find the center of the flat side, make a mark and drill a pilot hole
 with the 3mm drill. Enlarge this hole with the 21mm Flat Bit drill.
 This hole should then be enlarged with glass paper to give a snug fit on the 90degree bend.

  You now need to cut a slot for the inlet pipe in what was the end cap seal and is now the bottom.
 Make this slot a little bigger than the pipe and about 75% of the skirt depth (see Pic x).

Small Bits

  Cut Two lengths of 22mm pipe about five inches long for the inlet and outlet

Assembly of the DIY fluid bed pond filter

Safety
  At this point you are going to start using the PVC solvent - read the label!
 Make sure you have good ventilation in your work area.
  Wear rubber gloves etc..

Base
Take one of the five inch pieces of 22mm pipe and check for fit in one of the 90degree bends.
Once you have assured yourself that they fit together apply a generous layer of the
solvent to the pipe end, and then working quickly insert the pipe into 
the 90degree bend (push all the way in)

 This should then be left to stand for around one hour to set hard.
 The label instructions on the solvent will give curing times.

 Once that part has set, check that it fits into the base through the slot and sits flush
 with the flat face on what will be the inside of the filter, if not adjust as necessary.
 If all is well, roughen the outside of the 90degree bend with glass paper,
where it goes through the base, then apply a generous amount of PVC solvent 
and bring the two together.
 Make sure that the two parts are flush on the flat (inside) of the filter.
 Set this part of the filter to one side to cure overnight.

  Back to the main column.

  This bit can be a bit tricky.
  Put the remaining  length of 22mm pipe through the hole in the side of the column,
  about halfway to the middle looking from the top. Then, from the top with the 90degree
  bend facing upwards push it home onto the pipe.
  Then, by eye, center the bend in the middle of the column facing upwards.
  When you are happy with the alignment, mark the 22mm pipe where it enters the column.
  Then carefully withdraw the pipe about 20mm apply solvent weld and ease back into
  position, then recheck the alignment.  Put to one side over night.

  Fixing the Base to Column

  This is simple.  Center the column on the base then mark around the column,
  remove the column and roughen the base and the column were they met.
  Add a generous circle of solvent to both surfaces and bring the two together.

  Allow to cure over night then add more solvent to all welded areas.
  Sorry about this but we Don't what it to leak,  do we, 
  then leave it over night again to cure (set)

  In the morning (or even better a week later) give the whole thing a very 
  good swill out water and lots of it. When you have finished you should 
  not be able to smell solvent at all.

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