Part 1 - Basic considerations for
Denitrification of Salene Waters:
In order for denitrification to occur, all oxygen must be consumed from the water and facultatively aerobic/anaerobic bacteria must form. They must be allowed the time to do their work and have food available to survive.
Many denitrification devices on the market, besides being overpriced do not function properly, and the bacteria must be fed on a regular basis. They are hard to keep adjusted and do not allow adequate time for the natural occuring bacteria to form and do their thing.
For convenience to the operator, many denitrification devices have evolved that do not require the addition of additional food for the bacteria. They were usually sold as coil-denitrators. But the inherent problems associated with all designs of that type were constant clogging and constant adjustments to the system.
As coil-denitrators are so easy and inexpensive to make, I am including those plans as well.
Part 2 - Basic Construction Notes for all functioning denitrators:
To make things as simple as possible, I will use the standard rate of one drop per second, 60 drops per minute as many denitrifiers are designed.
At this flow rate, the recommended time, converted to distance of travel for ease of calculation, for the system to function properly is 78 continuous feet of airtight enclosure. If the continuous distance is broken into cells the distance can be as little as 50 feet continuous, without the necessity of feeding. Any distance less than 50 feet, will require feeding.
The simplest method, albeit the most troublesome form of denitrification, is simply a coil-denitrator, using airline tubing as the active element. An alternative is a thin flat-denitrator of 1/4 inch double skinned polypropylene sheeting.
To make the unit less troublesome, 3/8 to 1/2 inch size tubing or the structured polypropylene sheeting should be used, in lieu of airline.
Note: If you already own a manufactured denitrator, that requires feeding. You may use two back to back and quit feeding or substitute the nutrient for the denitrator with simple hummingbird feeder mixed at the same proportions and use as equivalent nutrient and rate recommended by your manufacturer.
Before the denitrified water re-enters your aquaria it should be reoxygenated which is just allowing air to get to the last leg of the journey back to your sump. It also allows, any stray bacteria to be killed.
In order for denitrification to occur, all oxygen must be consumed from the water and facultatively aerobic/anaerobic bacteria must form. They must be allowed the time to do their work and have food available to survive.
Many denitrification devices on the market, besides being overpriced do not function properly, and the bacteria must be fed on a regular basis. They are hard to keep adjusted and do not allow adequate time for the natural occuring bacteria to form and do their thing.
For convenience to the operator, many denitrification devices have evolved that do not require the addition of additional food for the bacteria. They were usually sold as coil-denitrators. But the inherent problems associated with all designs of that type were constant clogging and constant adjustments to the system.
As coil-denitrators are so easy and inexpensive to make, I am including those plans as well.
Part 2 - Basic Construction Notes for all functioning denitrators:
To make things as simple as possible, I will use the standard rate of one drop per second, 60 drops per minute as many denitrifiers are designed.
At this flow rate, the recommended time, converted to distance of travel for ease of calculation, for the system to function properly is 78 continuous feet of airtight enclosure. If the continuous distance is broken into cells the distance can be as little as 50 feet continuous, without the necessity of feeding. Any distance less than 50 feet, will require feeding.
The simplest method, albeit the most troublesome form of denitrification, is simply a coil-denitrator, using airline tubing as the active element. An alternative is a thin flat-denitrator of 1/4 inch double skinned polypropylene sheeting.
To make the unit less troublesome, 3/8 to 1/2 inch size tubing or the structured polypropylene sheeting should be used, in lieu of airline.
Note: If you already own a manufactured denitrator, that requires feeding. You may use two back to back and quit feeding or substitute the nutrient for the denitrator with simple hummingbird feeder mixed at the same proportions and use as equivalent nutrient and rate recommended by your manufacturer.
Before the denitrified water re-enters your aquaria it should be reoxygenated which is just allowing air to get to the last leg of the journey back to your sump. It also allows, any stray bacteria to be killed.
